Cuisine After Colonization: A Profile of Goan and Portuguese Food

Portugal’s colonization of Goa, India left an indelible mark on both Goan and Portuguese food. Of course, Portugal’s domination of Goa secured the wealthy Portuguese elite the most coveted spices, like black pepper. But the exchange between the two cultures that occurred over the 500 years that the Portuguese ruled goes far beyond any one particular spice and is deliciously present in both cuisines today.

While we can today appreciate the way that food draws from various cultures, it’s important to note that the process under which this exchange took place was a violent one with overwhelmingly negative consequences for the colonized population. In Goa, the Portuguese led an inquisition wherein anyone who wasn’t Catholic was persecuted (and sometimes not even that was enough to avoid the discrimination that Goans experienced). Portugal’s rule over Goa ended in 1961 when Indian troops liberated the area.

Even though Portugal’s legacy in Goa was not overall favorable, they did bring over many crops that would eventually become Goa staples: red chili, potatoes, tomatoes, and more. Here are the most popular Goan dishes that have Portuguese influence:

Chicken Vindaloo

A spicy curry made with chicken that has been marinated in vinegar, garlic, ginger, and other spices. The dish is inspired and named after the Portuguese “Carne de Vinha d’Alhos,” which translates to meat marinated in wine and garlic.

Goan Fish Curry

Portugal is well-known for its seafood dish repertoire and with Goa on the coast of the Arabian sea, it’s not a shock that a fish curry would become a favorite. The curry is made with a coconut paste (brought over by the Portuguese), as well as mustard seeds, turmeric, coriander seeds, garlic, and tamarind. It is usually made with white fish, but can be replaced with any other type of seafood.

The Portuguese also took inspiration from their time in India and regularly enjoy delicacies from the Goan kitchen:  

Chamuças

The Portuguese word for samosa, these fried delights are usually filled with chicken or beef in Portugal.

Peixinhos da Horta

This green bean tempura was likely inspired by the Indian pakora, which are fried vegetables covered in a spiced batter.

Nothing can undo the harm that colonization caused. While the process was abominable, the exchange of different ingredients, spices, and cooking techniques is a positive outcome that both the Goan and Portuguese people (and the whole world) has benefited from. The international history behind most cuisines across the world offers a chance for people to come together on equal footing, appreciating and drawing from another culture instead of subjugating it.