Destination Athens
This is Athens: Exciting and exasperating, worldly and oh so hot, a city that attacks the senses and stirs the spirit as only the cradle of Western civilization can. Homeland to gods, goddesses, and some of history’s greatest philosophers and athletes, Athens boasts glorious ancient temples such as the Acropolis and its iconic Parthenon, and beautiful beaches. Best of all, Athens has the Athenians, who welcome progress, feed on the latest trends and, true to their hedonistic roots, party with Olympian stamina. It’s likely that you’ll arrive in Athens in the afternoon, groggy and disoriented after a long flight. The ride into town from the airport is unlikely to help your spirits. You’ll whiz along an efficient but anonymous highway that could be anywhere, before being fed into Athens’s ferocious traffic; or you’ll be underground in the Metro, itching to get to your hotel. Somewhere, you know, not far away, must be the blue Aegean and the lofty Acropolis
While you’ll be itching to see the Acropolis, majestically crowned by the Parthenon, take a siga, siga (slowly, slowly) approach to sightseeing. Go on an architectural dig in the Acropolis Museum, explore the ancient Agorá‘s marketplace, where democracy was born. For cool respite, head to the National Gardens and for gorgeous sunsets, perch on the peak of Lycabettus Mountain.
One small, graceful monument you might easily miss is the 4th-century-B.C. Choregic Monument of Lysikrates, on Lysikratous in the Plaka, located a few steps from the excellent Daphne’s restaurant. This circular monument with Corinthian columns and a domed roof bears an inscription stating that Lysikrates erected it when he won the award in 334 B.C. for the best musical performance with a “chorus of boys.” A frieze shows Dionysos busily trying to turn evil pirates into friendly dolphins.
Three hills near the Acropolis deserve a respectful glance: Areopagus, Pnyx, and Filopappos. Areopagus is the bald marble hill across from the entrance to the Acropolis; it is so slippery, despite its marble steps, that it is never an easy climb, and it is treacherous in the rain. This makes it hard to imagine the Athenians who served on the council and court making their way up here. Still harder to imagine is St. Paul on this slippery perch thundering out criticisms of the Athenians for their superstitions.
From the Areopagus and Acropolis, you can see two nearby wooded hills. The one with the monument visible on its summit is Filopappos (Hill of the Muses). The monument is the funeral
Pedion Areos (Plains of Mars) is central Athens’s largest and most beautiful park. With lawns, ponds, gardens, and fountains, it’s the ideal park for the entire family to either stroll or bicycle through. Among the many small parks and gardens scattered throughout Athens, the National Gardens are the best for children. If you’re staying in Kolonaki, try Dexamini Square, which has a small playground and several cafes. (It’s below the St. George Lycabettus hotel off Kleomenous.)
Shopping
Style-conscious Athenians browse for high-street fashion along pedestrian Ermou and for couture and designer jewelry in Kolonaki before brunch on Kolonaki Square. Skip the tourist kitsch in Plaka and Monastiraki in favor of poet/shoemaker Stavros Melissonos‘ handmade leather sandals. It’s all early morning action in the 19th-century glass-and-steel Central Market, where stalls are laden with fresh fruit, nuts, and mounds of Aegean seafood.
Nightlife & Entertainment
Greeks enjoy their nightlife so much that they take an afternoon nap to rest up for it. The evening often begins with a leisurely volta (stroll); you’ll see this in most neighborhoods, including the
Restaurants & Dining
picurian Athens is a foodie’s delight, from the old-fashioned tavernas to the trendiest gourmet eateries; world cuisines are nicely represented as well. The plethora of dining options is dizzying and the settings range from city sidewalks, quiet courtyards and gardens, verandas with breathtaking Acropolis and city views to dining on the beach. A meal in Athens, particularly dinner, is to be relished, never rushed and preferably enjoyed alfresco. Whether it’s creative Mediterranean cuisine in Michelin-starred Spondi or a take-out souvlaki, good food is taken for granted in Athens. Views of the Acropolis might distract you from the menu in Plaka and Monastiraki, where tavernas dish up Greek classics. Venture to the Microlimano harbor for fresh fish by the water’s edge, and Kolonaki’s trendy restaurants for a cosmopolitan feel.