Fake Castles and True History: A Guide to Lisbon, Portugal

When traveling, most people simply go to see what they’re told to. Often times, they don’t even know what they are looking at. Occasionally this is beyond their immediate control, due to deceptive techniques on the part of a city’s tourism department. Other times it’s because people don’t know the historical context of a particular attraction. I’ve lived in Lisbon, Portugal for a year, so the following information will help you avoid both missteps.

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The first thing you need to know before going to Lisbon is that not all major sights are worth seeing. For example, one of the first things that will pop up on Google when you type in “Lisbon” is the Castelo de São Jorge, located in the historic Alfama neighborhood. While “castle” is in the name, it is neither a historic nor consequential landmark. Tourists frequently assume the castle dates back to the 1500s when the Moors ruled in Portugal, but in fact the castle was constructed between 1938-1940. Adding insult to injury, entrance to the attraction is 15 euros.

The best part of the “castle” is the view, providing a panorama view of the Tagus River, the April 25th bridge, and all of Lisbon. However, Lisbon is called the city of seven hills and has several viewpoints or “miradouros.” They are free and a must-do while in Lisbon. My favorites are the Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro de Santa Luzia. They have kiosk cafes there where you can order a drink, or you can bring your own.

The aforementioned “castle” was built in the late 1930s by Portugal’s fascist ruler, António de Oliveira Salazar, and was part of his broader effort to glorify the history of the Portuguese nation (and make some substantial cash). This glorification also included the legacy of colonialism, cloaking it in terms of the Portuguese exploration. Such is the backstory behind the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (“Monument to the Discoveries.”)

The monument was designed in the 1940s by the Salazar regime and was eventually constructed in the 1960s. It features 33 Portuguese figures associated with the age of colonialism, including navigators, missionaries, mathematicians, and artists. The monument fails to acknowledge the poor Portuguese peasants that were forced on these explorations who often never made it back home. It also does not shed any light on the horrors of colonialism that these people brought to places like Brazil, Angola, and India. There is only a memorial down the road dedicated solely to the Portuguese soldiers who died in the country’s final colonial wars of the 1970s.

In addition to bombing its colonies to retain control, the Salazar regime also heavily repressed political dissent at home. This included strict censorship of the news, academic works, literature, and art. While it suppressed the distribution of some types of art based largely on political messages, it also coopted other forms for its own ends, such as fado music. Fado is a popular genre of music that is characterized by melancholic lyrics describing the life and suffering of the poor, particularly those who went to sea during the age of colonialism. During the Salazar regime, fado, and all music really, was confined to light topics, such as romance or wine, or ones that would promote the regime’s agenda, like the importance of family and the church. As a result, many still associate fado music with the regime.

Despite this, fado is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, especially with the pouring in of tourists. You can experience it in Alfama, the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon as it was the only one to survive the deadly earthquake in 1755. It’s an exciting time to listen to it, as fado musicians and singers are returning to the genre’s poignant roots about the everyday struggles of people. I recommend “A Baiuca” for its top-notch singers and enamoring ambience.

Given the heroic history of the Portuguese people and those in its colonies, it’s worth learning further about how the people came together in 1974 to topple what is still the longest fascist dictatorship in Europe’s history, which lasted 42 years. Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade (“Museum of Aljube Resistence and Freedom”) is located within a former prison and is dedicated to the struggle against the dictatorship and the Carnation Revolution, which brought it to an end.  

After the museum, stroll over to Bifanas of Afonso, to try the famous Portuguese bifana. To me, the simplest meals are some of the best. A bifana is a sandwich with thin-cut pork that has been marinated in a garlic, wine, and spices. It’s strongly advised to eat it with mustard and a class of beer. Bifanas of Afonso is famous for a reason, so beware of the line that can form.

Lisbon is a historic city with so much to offer. Understanding the history behind the city and the struggles of its people makes for a fuller visit. Beyond any one suggestion, the best thing you can do in Lisbon (or any city) is to talk to the people. Talk to the waiters, bus drivers, and even a random person on the street. With your newfound knowledge, they will be more than happy to talk about their own experiences and give you more recommendations.

Boa viagem!